19 May – Alpine valleys and a memorable evening

19 May – Alpine valleys and a memorable evening

Today was a long but beautiful 75km ride, along two alpine valleys. We started out continuing our route along the Alpe Adria cycle path to Obervellach, where we left that route to continue along the Moll river towards Winklern and the Grossglockner pass.

Jenny was still hesitating about crossing at Grossglockner, and was discussing turning back the next day to do the Alpe Adria route instead, as it crosses through a tunnel on a train. However we had booked accommodation on the way to Grossglockner, so we continued. We met a German touring cyclist who had just crossed the day before and that was encouraging.

Kris also had his first flat tire on this day – on the front wheel that had just been replaced.

These Alpine valleys are really stunn when we first got to the pub, but switched over to standard German when they spoke with us.ing to ride through – following the river through green fields sprinkled with yellow and red wild flowers, dotted with little villages topped with church spires. And the ever present hills and craggy snow capped peaks in the distance. Most of the route was off the road on bespoke cycle paths, as we have come to expect in Austria.

Some of the cows are wearing cowbells!

Typical scene with house and wildflowers

Notice the neatly stacked firewood in the foreground

the Grossglockner pass.

Our accommodation was just off the when we first got to the pub, but switched over to standard German when they spoke with us. bicycle path – a recently renovated old gasthaus – Gasthaus Aspeling.
The bathroom was unique – to be fair they called a “wet area” – it was basically a cupboard with a toilet, basin and shower all squashed in. Not so easy for Kris to wash clothes. Downstairs was a pub, that served basic “street food”.

When we went down to drink a beer and for some food later in the evening, we began chatting to three local men who were enjoying a wine together.
They looked very Austrian – one was wearing a Tyroler hat, waistcoat and braces – he later offered us some snuff – Kris accepted and was gifted the snuff tin at the end of the evening. Hubert had a pony tale and a baseball cap and paid for some of our drinks. Another friend had a bald head deftly covered with a baseball hat and was wearing shorts – he shared a discussion with us on the nature of humanity and entropy. Later on the bar maid/ waitress joined us and eventually Kris joined them outside for a closing smoke to end the evening. We discussed human nature, the universe, politics and friendship. Then we went to bed totally satisfied and happy to have shared a wonderful evening with new friends in Austria.

PS – We conversed without thought of language switching between German and English as the thoughts flowed. Our friends were speaking a dialect particular to this valley when we first got to the pub, but switched over to standard German when they spoke with us.

By this time Jenny decided the Grossglockner pass would be fine.

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