19 May – Along the Rhine to Herten (just outside Rheinfelden)

19 May – Along the Rhine to Herten (just outside Rheinfelden)

A slightly longer ride today at around 100km. Overcast with no wind but surprisingly warm. The chill has left the air since we descended from the Bodensee.

We have followed the Rhine the whole day through changing landscapes. In the morning we cycled through part of the Schwarzwald (Black forest). We also crossed into Switzerland again for a while over a toll bridge (bikes dont pay!). Also some cycling along bike paths over farmland. There are quite a number of other touring cyclists on these paths with pannier bags. Some have whole families including little children on bikes or in towed wagons.

We spent about an hour finding accommodation, due to a bike tour/race that is happening in the area. The hotel we have is OK but not as good as our previous accommodation (we are getting spoilt!). However it does have internet.


  • Riding on an island (which is a nature reserve) on the Rhine just outside Shaffhausen
  • Stopping to buy (and eat) cake at a bakery
  • The beautiful border town of Bad Sackinnen – cobbled streets etc again. Most notable were the bridge over the Rhine into the old town and the stunning gothic cathedral.
  • Riding through a few wooden covered bridges (some of which cars cannot go through)
  • Another swan with cygnets (the male almost attacked Kris).


  • Kris broke another spoke! Luckily this time it only took about 20 min to fix. I am becoming a handy bike mechanics assistant.
  • The outskirts of Rheinfelden were seedy with broken bottles on the road etc. Across the border on the Swiss side it is a beautiful historic town but seemed very posh.

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